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São Francisco do Sul is one of the most enchanting cities in Santa Catarina, south Brazil and also one of Brazil’s most historic, having been founded in 1504 by the French navigator Binot Paulmier de Gonneville.
Located on the northern coast of Santa Catarina, the town is renowned for housing the third largest preserved historic centre in the country, with its colonial buildings that transport us directly to centuries past.
What enchants me most about São Francisco do Sul is this unique combination: you can stroll through the cobblestone streets of the historic centre in the morning and in the afternoon be relaxing on one of its beautiful beaches. It’s like having two completely different experiences in one place!
In my adolescence, I frequented Enseada Beach quite often and always had a special connection with this region. Recently, I had the opportunity to explore the historic town centre more thoroughly and fell even more in love with this place full of charm and history.
Historic Centre
The historic centre of São Francisco do Sul is simply unmissable. Walking through these streets is like taking a journey through time, with colonial mansions from the 17th and 18th centuries perfectly preserved.
Luso-Brazilian architecture is everywhere, with its coloured windows, wrought iron balconies, and façades that tell stories of distant times. It’s delightful to get lost in these narrow streets and discover every photogenic corner.
What to visit?
- National Maritime Museum: Housed in an old fortress, it’s the largest nautical museum in the country. The collection of vessels is impressive and the view of the bay is breathtaking.
- Church Nossa Senhora da Graça: a testament to the city’s religious and architectural history.
- Public Market: A charming market where you’ll find local handicrafts, typical products, and that welcoming atmosphere of the Santa Catarina countryside.
- Museu Nacional do Mar: Discover Brazil’s maritime heritage through an extensive collection of traditional boats and nautical artifacts.
- Forte Marechal Luz: Built in the early 20th century to protect the Bay of Babitonga, it now serves as a peaceful tourist spot. Visitors can enjoy panoramic sea views, see old cannons, and explore light walking trails. It’s a great place for history lovers and nature enthusiasts alike.
The Beaches
São Francisco do Sul offers beaches for every mood and traveller. Here are some of the main ones:
Praia da Enseada: The most famous beach on the island and with the best tourist infrastructure. Calm waters, banana boat rides, pedal boats, and kayak rentals make it ideal for families. It’s shaped like a horseshoe and has a great atmosphere.
Praia Grande: The longest beach on the island, with 25 km of nearly untouched sand. Perfect for fishing — it hosts the largest surfcasting championship in southern Brazil — and for surfers who prefer the rougher waters at the left end.
Praia do Ervino: Adjacent to Praia Grande, this beach is more remote, with limited tourist infrastructure but many holiday homes. A favourite for those seeking tranquillity and nature.
Praia de Itaguaçu: About 16km from the city centre, this beach has strong waves and undertows. It’s lined with holiday homes, and a hill at its left end (Morro João Dias) is known for its sand, believed to aid in treating rheumatism.
Praia de Ubatuba: Just beyond Itaguaçu, separated by a small hill. It’s popular with surfers and beachgoers who enjoy bigger waves. Also known for beach volleyball tournaments in summer.
Praia da Saudade (Prainha): A favourite among surfers, with regional championships held there. At night, it becomes a lively hotspot with busy bars. It’s also home to São Francisco’s most important sambaqui.
Praia do Forte: Divided into calm and rough waters, this beach is popular in summer. The calm right side is known for its dark sand used for therapeutic purposes. The rough left side (Sumidouro) is ideal for surfing.
Balneário de Capri: A peaceful beach with calm waters, perfect for relaxing. It’s home to one of the state’s largest yacht clubs and the ruins of a former leper colony.
Other beaches include Praia dos Ingleses, Praia da Figueira, Praia do Salão, and Praia do Calixto — all located near the Balneário de Paulas, with calm waters, fishing communities, and ideal conditions for water sports.
Gastronomy
The local cuisine is a chapter unto itself! As a coastal city with deep fishing traditions, seafood is the undisputed star on most menus.
One must-try dish is the iconic casquinha de siri — a beloved Brazilian starter made with seasoned crab meat, sautéed with onions, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, and a touch of local spice. The mixture is then baked in a scallop shell or ramekin, often topped with golden breadcrumbs. Crunchy on the outside and rich, soft, and full of flavour on the inside, it’s a true taste of the coast.
Other highlights include grilled mullet, fresh prawns, and regional favourites paired with artisanal cachaça or an ice-cold local beer — best enjoyed with a view of the bay.
Many restaurants are nestled in the historic centre, some set within charming colonial mansions that add an extra touch of character to the dining experience. One highlight was the delicious Restaurante Porto Mediterrâneo, where we had an amazing lunch.
Tips
- The best time to visit São Francisco do Sul is between March and June, and September and November, when the weather is milder and there are fewer tourists about.
- In summer (December to March), the city becomes quite busy, especially at weekends and holidays. If you enjoy a lively atmosphere, it’s a good time, but if you prefer tranquillity, avoid this period.
- Don’t miss trying the local products at the Public Market, especially the flours and artisanal sweets.
- To get to know the city properly, set aside at least a full day. The historic centre can be explored on foot in a few hours, but the beaches deserve time to be enjoyed at leisure.
How to get there?
São Francisco do Sul is about 45km from Joinville and 200km from Florianópolis.
By car: It’s the most practical way to get there. From Florianópolis, it’s about 2½ hours’ journey via the BR-101. The city has parking in the historic centre, but arrive early at weekends to guarantee a space.
By bus: Catarinense runs the route from Florianópolis to São Francisco do Sul, with about 3 hours’ journey time. From Joinville, it’s approximately 50 minutes.
By plane: The nearest airport is Joinville’s, but Florianópolis is also a viable option.
If you’re thinking of hiring a car, I recommend having a look at Discover Cars, a car hire comparison platform that allows you to choose a vehicle that meets your preferences. Compare car rental options with Discover Cars.
Where to stay?
There are charming guesthouses in the historic centre that offer the complete experience of sleeping amidst all this history. Some are in restored mansions and provide a unique experience. For those who prefer to stay near the beaches, there are options in Enseada and other beaches in the region.
But there you have it, everyone! São Francisco do Sul is one of those cities that reminds us why the Santa Catarina coast is so special. The combination of history, culture, nature, and good gastronomy makes it an unmissable destination.
And you lot, do you already know São Francisco do Sul? Or have you been inspired to include it in your next trip? Tell me in the comments how your experience was or if you have any questions about planning!
Cheers!
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